How to create a capsule wardrobe

Aka clearing clothes so you keep only what you actually wear and feel great in!

Photo by Crew on Unsplash

I read an article recently about building a capsule wardrobe, written by a French woman. Need I say more. I am a sucker for such features because I have always been quietly obsessed by the idea of becoming ‘capsule wardrobe woman’. I fantasise about a single closet neatly hung with the perfect blazer, coat, and trench, alongside a handful of crisp cotton tees, some cashmere sweaters, two pairs of jeans and the perfect beanie.

Well I have the hat. And the jeans (but more than two pairs). And a pile of wool jumpers, half of which I seem to have shrunk but wear anyway figuring I’m pulling off a cheeky ‘cropped’ look. I do have a pair of crisp white cotton vest tops, and then three ancient t-shirts from American Vintage, that by now, really are worn to the point of looking vintage. I also rotate the same items in my school run life which deludes me that I am in fact already capsule wardrobe woman.

Except I am not because what of all the other stuff in my drobe?! Also, if I’m honest, I’ve been leaning too heavily into a quite scruffy look in the name of sustainability. I keep the ancient tee and stitch up the sweater, again, but actually the underarms have disintegrated and that shirt has a permanent stain.

In truth I think I’ve been hiding behind my dressed-down attire. I enjoy feeling invisible. But I could be less scruffy! And this is categorically not about buying new clothes, it’s about clearing out the long past their best and wearing the other things I already own! And if I don’t want to wear them? Time to let those go too.

Thus, as part of the November Saving Challenge, I decided radical action was required and it was time to properly rid my closet of the shrunken, the ok, the I’ll-keep-it-for-painting-in and the not-really-worn because they’re not comfy/loved/liked. Besides, regularly reviewing your clothes ensures you do not buy what you do not need.

For here’s the thing. The key to having a truly capsule wardrobe is that everything goes with everything else! Sounds so simple doesn't it, but so often this is not the case. And rest assured, it doesn't mean that your wardrobe must now resemble your school uniform of years gone by, or that your style never gets updated. A few curveballs are entirely acceptable. It’s more that, just as I counsel with the home, you know your best colours; and what cuts and styles suit you, and you stick to them. You buy the best you can afford; and stick to natural fibres wherever possible.

I think this is what the French seem to nail so well; their basics are quality.

Key brands include: Soeur, APC, Sézane, and Loulou Studio.

So herewith, my top capsuling tips…

One in one out. For example, I have a Rains mac. It’s a great brand, I love it. But my Mac is knee length so if it’s really raining, my legs still get soaked. Solution? Snapped up a longer one in the sales. And now the shorter one goes straight onto Vinted! I don’t need two. I also found an old Prada nylon Mac (also knee length) in my cupboard. Out that went too. And the money I get back, more than offsets the money spent.

Try everything on with everything else. The idea is to buy and think only in outfits. Pieces that work effortlessly with what you already have. So the new top gets tested with all your trousers; the boots likewise (see below). And always only keep that which gives you the feels, whether comfy cosy, or ready to rock. Your clothes should make you feel like you. Just you not naked. My rule of thumb: if you wouldn’t walk out the front door or changing room wearing the new piece right now, then don’t buy it.

Ankle boots need to work with all your trousers. Because if they are too short under anything cropped, then that’s a goes-with-everything fail. I had a lovely Celine pair with red heels. Super chic. But also super short. I’ve just bought a new pair from Soeur. Low heeled and long necked. Cross checked with all my jeans, perfect. But again, those Celine boots now go straight onto Vinted. Bonus points for also now having a shoe box to ship them straight out in!

Anything you’re not sure about, get a second trusted opinion. So not your partner. An objective friend or sibling is best. One step removed from you means you might actually listen to their opinion.

Only keep clothes you would answer the front door in. Example, I have a Waste Yarn Project jumper made out of re-cycled yarn. I thought this was a brilliant concept, and figured I’d wear it forever. Only it’s kind of funny colours combined, and warm though it is, I don’t really love love it. So I only wear it indoors. Or for dog walking, under a coat. And if I had to take off that coat… well you get the picture. It has to go. And now I’ll wear the big grey jumper my mum knitted for my dad way back when. The one that had been hitherto folded in a box.

Keep old jeans. Straight, skinny, cropped or flared, they all come back into fashion eventually. So as long as yours are not horribly faded, worn/sagging in the knees, or otherwise tatty, this is the one item of clothing I say hang onto. Likewise a denim jacket. I have a lovely fitted TopShop one that’s at least 25 years old!

Classics are classics for a reason. A V-neck navy wool sweater (try Uniqlo). A small cross-body bag. A trench coat. A blazer/jacket. Etc.

It's fine to keep sentimental items. For example, the fur-trimmed suit from the 60s that my father bought my mother. I’ll likely never wear it, but I like it’s story. At least for now. Because sometimes it takes a while to be ready to let some things go. Never clear under duress.

You can have too many socks.

But tatty pants are a no thank you. Come on, you deserve a new pack of M&S finest!

Check sleeves. Does the new jumper fit under your favourite coat? There is nothing worse than sleeves bunched under your armpits. And this is key to capsuling, so it bears repetition, everything needs to work with everything else. So maybe buy coats and macs a size larger than normal!

Bottom line, if you were packing for a two-week holiday somewhere with the same climate as your home, what would you pack? These are the things you truly love, and feel good in, so they are the only things you should keep. It’s one of the reasons I love camping, it reminds you how little you really need. But again, this doesn't mean you must rush out and replace, just have less! Radical. Not.

And here is everything else I know…

This is where we get into the nitty gritty of what stays and what must go. Your 101 of wardrobe clearing! Come on, you’ve got this…